Cioppino

After cooking, clams and mussels should open naturally. Any that remain closed and won't open when tapped are dead and could make you sick—throw them away. Also discard any that were cracked or broken before cooking.

Prepare the tomato broth up to 8 hours ahead and refrigerate it. When you're ready to serve, reheat the broth to a simmer and add the seafood fresh. Never pre-cook the seafood and store it in the broth—it will become tough and watery.

Use Manila clams (smaller, cook faster, add 1 minute less) or larger cherrystone clams (add 1–2 minutes more cooking time). You can also use canned clams, but use only their juice in the broth and add fresh clams whole in their shells for authenticity and texture.

Thaw completely in the refrigerator before cooking. Frozen seafood releases more liquid and won't brown or sear well. Fresh is always best for cioppino's delicate flavors, but thawed frozen shrimp and fish are acceptable; avoid pre-cooked seafood.

Use a dry white wine you would drink: Pinot Grigio, Sauvignon Blanc, or Vermentino. Don't use "cooking wine" from the supermarket. The wine's flavor carries through the broth, so choose something you enjoy.

Yes. The classic combination is clams, mussels, shrimp, and fish, but you can use any mix of shellfish and white fish totaling about 4 lb. Avoid oily fish like salmon or mackerel, which overpower the delicate broth. Scallops and lobster work beautifully if you want to splurge.